Surfing — conquering the waves

The word «surfing» comes from the English word surfing, and means «rolling on the surface.» Surfing is an extreme sport that involves riding on water on a special board. In countries located far from the ocean, artificial waves are used for riding indoors. This method is good because the waves can be controlled and set the exact parameters of their speed and height.

History of occurrence

The history of surfing has more than one century, and perhaps a millennium. The first surfers were the inhabitants of the Hawaiian Islands. This art in those distant times was available only to the elite. The kings and queens of Hawaii sought to rule both on land and on water. They considered surfing only their own privilege and sought to ensure that this activity was not available to ordinary people. If cases of subjects surfing were revealed, then those who encroached on the royal entertainment were punished by death. Only a small circle of privileged persons mastered the art of conquering the water space with the help of special boards.

The first surfboards were made from a single piece of wood and weighed about 70 kg. The length of the boards was from 2.7 to 5.5 meters. At night, they were left on the beach, since it never occurred to anyone to kidnap them because of their heaviness and massiveness.

The Hawaiian nobility regularly arranged fun on the water. Royal priests used spells to summon large waves so that the entertainment would take place on the largest scale. Spectacular water fights gathered numerous spectators on the shore who bet on the winners.

With the advent of Christian missionaries in Hawaii, surfing was nearly forgotten. Being part of the local culture, he caused fear among Christian preachers, shackled by strict rules and dogmas.

For centuries, the art of surfing was carefully preserved and preserved, but it began to gain worldwide popularity only in the 19th century. The fame of surfing in Europe was promoted by a person of royal blood, the Hawaiian princess Kaiulani. An unusually talented and smart girl was educated in Britain. And it was she who did not miss the opportunity to demonstrate her surfing skills to Europe, as the last representative of the ancient Waikiki school.

Since then, surfing has been steadily marching around the world, gathering its fans — strong in body and spirit of brave people.

What is surfing?

The heyday of the popularity of surfing begins in the 50s of the 20th century. The production of surfboards, put on a commercial basis, reduced their cost and made it possible for all young energetic people to purchase them. Different types of boards are used for surfing: you can ride long ones — up to three meters, short ones — from 180 cm. You can use tow-in surfboards with leg loops so as not to fall during very strong waves.

Classical surfing is sliding on waves on light boards. Now classic surfboards can be made not only from wood, but also from foam and durable, lightweight fiberglass. The art of surfing lies in the ability to perform high-speed maneuvers among billowing waves. This kind of outdoor activity gives a unique thrill when, being at the very top of the wave, the athlete falls down at great speed and then rises again with the next wave. The sensations of classic surfing are as limitless as the depths of the sea.

Types of surfing and their features

Conventionally, all types of surfing can be divided into extreme and moderate. But since surfing in general can be considered as an extreme sport, then moderate surfing is rather the initial stage of mastering this sport, after which ambitious beginners will move on to the next stage.

In addition to classic surfing, this sport includes the following varieties:

wakesurf

This type of surfing is especially popular in countries far from natural sea or ocean waves. A wave in wakesurfing is created by a boat that moves at a speed of 16 km/h. The surfer is «attached» to the boat with a special rope — a halyard, which he then throws and follows the boat as in classic surfing.

Windsurfing

The term «windsurfing» comes from the English word wind — wind. This type of surfing involves moving on the water surface using a light board with a sail installed on it. A sailboard is a simplified model of a sailboat without a rudder. The movement is controlled by adjusting the tilt of the mast with the sail, as well as by tilting the board itself from side to side. The advantage of this type of surfing is that it is available with any wind strength. Experienced masters show a virtuoso technique of moving along the waves and performing various tricks.

Bodyboarding

This is a type of surfing in which the surfer is in a prone position on a soft short board.

kitesurfing

This is perhaps one of the most spectacular types of surfing. It is a very colorful and dynamic sport. Movement on the water surface here is carried out with the help of a huge kite. Thus, the athlete simultaneously conquers two elements — water and air.

Whatever type of surfing you choose, you will get a lot of pleasure from outdoor activities and communication with the water element.

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